10 Comments
Jun 21, 2023Liked by Amy Odell

I think you captured the essence of this show. No offense to Pharrell, who I think is a talent in many areas, but the idea of designer as creative director is in peril.

Expand full comment
author

Thank you! And yes, Pharrell is a genius and true cultural innovator. He wasn't hired to make clothes. He was hired because he creates buzz, spectacle, intrigue, and can stage and market epic events.

Expand full comment

💯

Expand full comment

Great read Amy. I found most of this collection to be more commercial and wearable than the Louis Vuitton main women’s line by Ghesquiere, and for a menswear collection it featured a large number of female models, as well as female celebrities like Rihanna, Kim Kardashian, etc in the looks. It seems Pharrell’s approach is more inclusive casting and to a degree gender neutral clothing — which now gives women two versions of Louis Vuitton to choose from. This reminds me of when Hedi Slimane’s skinny suits and tailoring at YSL was so influential that women wanted to wear it too. [Side note: Ghesquiere’s Balenciaga was nothing short of revolutionary, but I’m not sure what he’s been smoking at LV. Even the paid celebs look terrible in the unwearable clothes.] Also, was that Stefano Pilati sashaying down the runway?

Expand full comment

I love Pharrell’s style and his music. But he is not a designer. They staged an event to drum up sales of their bags, like you said. There really weren’t any clothes that anyone would actually wear. I think Grace Coddington was spot on in her quote. I totally agree with her. What it was, was just a party for celebs meant to generate social media posts and sell bags. Because they think that there are people who think that if they buy a LV bag, you’ll be that much closer to the chosen people who were there. And those people are fools. But who cares? I certainly don’t.

Expand full comment

Bravo! I think the moment at which you made the Intimidation of critics the whole point of using Pharrell for Louis Vuitton by quoting A.O. Scott is the moment at which I decideed to stop going to the movies and reading fashion magazines. Strictly vintage from here on out.

Expand full comment

So I guess this wouldn't fall into the "quiet luxury" category? Heh.

Expand full comment

I think you and Grace Coddington have the right perspective on this extravaganza

Expand full comment