Poor Burberry. It just doesn't know what it wants to be when it grows up. About 10-15 years ago, I really liked Burberry and, in fact, still have three bags. But (IMHO), after Christopher Bailey (who was brilliant), Tisci started to take it down a track that has progressively gotten worse with each successive designer. That's when the brand lost its way. Help, I've fallen and I can't get up!
Oh interesting, haha. I kind of think Miranda would be wearing Khaite and Charlotte would be wearing Carolina Herrera... Carrie would be wearing Galliano Margiela. Samantha would be wearing Sergio Hudson.
Burberry lately reminds me so much of what happened to Calvin Klein with Raf. It doesn’t seem like management has any idea what to do with the brand so they keep handing the reigns to whatever buzzy designer they can get even if it’s a total mismatch.
Living in Switzerland for over two decades has completely changed my concept of a "VIC". The really, really, really rich, old money folks here wouldn't be caught dead in logos. Being covered in them screams "new money" or "tourist".
I've never liked visible logos, so the Burbberry plaid holds absolutely zero appeal for me. That said, I did not realize they were struggling so much.
The guy who cuts my hair moved to a salon on E 57th Street, and every time I go for a cut I walk by the Burberry and Chanel stores. Chanel pretty consistently has a line of people waiting to get in, often younger and East Asian, while I don't think there has ever been a line at Burberry.
RE: the VIC thesis, I remember your interview the Balenciaga retail person who said their bread and butter customer was the logo T buyer (or something to that effect), and how they disappeared over night because the brand decided to stop catering to them. Really fascinating to see brands struggle with the customers they want vs what they have!
At the start of this year I was out in East London and I was surprised to see more Burberry scarves (the check classic) being worn than I had since the early 00's. I think that people still want the same things that made it trend then: British, upper/upper-middle-class coded, great quality, but also clearly a brand statement. As you say Burberry has been left in the middle ground, but there's so much scope for it to lean into this if it wants - IF
I always think of Tom and Lorenzo calling that bustline Mickey Mouse ears.
Hahaha
Burberry finally recovers from the chav plaid thing and gets hit by the Succession whammy. Ooof!
I think the VICs in the Cut piece look incredibly tacky.
There was nothing cravable in the least about those Burberry clothes. Tischi is starting to look good by comparison and Bailey was a golden age.
All I can say about Burberry is that I miss Christopher Bailey!
Poor Burberry. It just doesn't know what it wants to be when it grows up. About 10-15 years ago, I really liked Burberry and, in fact, still have three bags. But (IMHO), after Christopher Bailey (who was brilliant), Tisci started to take it down a track that has progressively gotten worse with each successive designer. That's when the brand lost its way. Help, I've fallen and I can't get up!
For what it's worth, if Charlotte York were in her 30s now, I am positive she'd be wearing Khaite, ha.
Oh interesting, haha. I kind of think Miranda would be wearing Khaite and Charlotte would be wearing Carolina Herrera... Carrie would be wearing Galliano Margiela. Samantha would be wearing Sergio Hudson.
This exercise was way too fun.
Burberry lately reminds me so much of what happened to Calvin Klein with Raf. It doesn’t seem like management has any idea what to do with the brand so they keep handing the reigns to whatever buzzy designer they can get even if it’s a total mismatch.
Great comparison.
Living in Switzerland for over two decades has completely changed my concept of a "VIC". The really, really, really rich, old money folks here wouldn't be caught dead in logos. Being covered in them screams "new money" or "tourist".
I've never liked visible logos, so the Burbberry plaid holds absolutely zero appeal for me. That said, I did not realize they were struggling so much.
The guy who cuts my hair moved to a salon on E 57th Street, and every time I go for a cut I walk by the Burberry and Chanel stores. Chanel pretty consistently has a line of people waiting to get in, often younger and East Asian, while I don't think there has ever been a line at Burberry.
I feel like "their store never has a line" is just about the worst thing you could say about a luxury brand post-covid.
RE: the VIC thesis, I remember your interview the Balenciaga retail person who said their bread and butter customer was the logo T buyer (or something to that effect), and how they disappeared over night because the brand decided to stop catering to them. Really fascinating to see brands struggle with the customers they want vs what they have!
Thank you for bringing this up! Great point.
At the start of this year I was out in East London and I was surprised to see more Burberry scarves (the check classic) being worn than I had since the early 00's. I think that people still want the same things that made it trend then: British, upper/upper-middle-class coded, great quality, but also clearly a brand statement. As you say Burberry has been left in the middle ground, but there's so much scope for it to lean into this if it wants - IF